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On the tip of the Okavango Delta’s forefinger, with the Moremi Game Reserve on one side and the Khwai Community Concession on the other, this small, safari-style guesthouse is yet another triumph of the community-led conservation model.

Protected on all sides by vast tracts of uninhabited, unspoilt, impenetrable wilderness, the Khwai village and its 400-odd residents are about as insulated from the vagaries of the outside world as you can get. Time doesn’t stand still here; it retreats.

Accommodation is in small thatched chalets, the design of which was inspired by the local community. Not aspiring to excess which, given the excessively remote location, is probably the wisest choice, the chalets at Khwai Guesthouse offer comfortable beds and en suite bathrooms with piping hot semi-open showers. A fan will do its best to keep you cool should you visit in summer; winters are chilly enough to require an extra blanket.

Dining is in a charming tented communal living area that opens onto the encroaching bush with the kitchen campfire an obvious focal point. Food is hearty if not exceptional, again a wise choice given your location.

Being surrounded by game reserves, an excellent safari experience is all but guaranteed. Large herds of everything converge on the water sources and chances are good you’ll see lion, elephant, giraffe, large antelopes, zebra and plenty of smaller mammals. Leopard sightings are relatively frequent here and the birdlife is prolific.


Six thatched chalets with en suite bathrooms and hot running water; large comfortable beds with mosquito nets; room safe; fan; patio; main living area with covered dining area, bar, lounge and an open-air campfire; airstrip and transfers


Safari activities include guided half-day, full-day and evening game drives with specially adapted off-road vehicles into either (or both) the Moremi Game Reserve, which encompasses the Delta, and the Khwai Concession along the perennial Khwai River. The half-day mokoro outing through the Delta’s channels is Africa’s considered answer to Venice and a mighty fine way to observe the finer details of this mesmerising land. Meet the Babukahwe villagers who have lived along the river for aeons and learn about their customs, means of subsistence and conservation practices.